After a gruelling session of learning oral English at the campus on Dong Chang road in downtown Shanghai, the eight or so kids in my class jumped at the chance of playing Blind Man’s Buff, you know, where one kid is blindfolded and has to catch one of the others. It was ten in the morning on a Sunday, the sunlight glaring through the windows. A Chinese teacher, Wendy, was observing my class and when one of the kids ran to turn the lights off in the room for the theatrical atmosphere, she stopped the child. ‘Why?’ I asked. ‘Because it will be too dangerous to play with a blindfold with the lights turned off,’ she replied.

I looked at the sunlight streaming through the windows, only somewhat dimmed by the corridor outside … then I looked back at Wendy and waited for her to see the daftness of her remark. It never came.

She just kept staring at me with those lovely, smoky, oriental eyes. The Chinese, who are mostly generous and super-friendly, are capable of the most dotty thinking. This blog is going to be devoted to such anecdotes, showing life as a South African at grass roots level in China, some funny, some sad, but all of them “Cracking China”.

“Top secret Wrigley’s chewing gum”

It is Olympics 2008 fever (and now we shift to the Paralympics) and I understand China’s need to tighten up on security. Baggage is checked on entering the subways and I gladly let them check my rucksack; to hell with terrorists and dissenters spoiling China’s wonderful opportunity to show the world how she has progressed. Chinese by and large put both shoulders to the wheel and take pride in their labour and being of service.

Sadly, all the little boutiques and rag-tag shops on the subways where you can buy anything from Winnie the Pooh key rings to china Buddhas are closed. My water lady in summer always has my yenchi shui ready (sweetened salt water, necessary and refreshing in the dripping 40 degree summers). Marion buys the two English newspapers every day. My wife’s newspaper lady sometimes runs up to give Marion her papers as she’s scuttling onto the train.

‘No no,’ the shop assistant wails in Chinese as I take a photo of a marvelously ambivalent Chinglish sign behind a tray of Wrigley’s chewing gum in our local convenience store. The sign ambivalently says, “Familymart’s plastic bag should be sold without for free”. China has recently passed a law that plastic shopping bags must be bought. “Why?” I mutter and theatrically get ready to take another picture, as I can be quite bolshy, especially when I can see no reason for not being allowed to do something. ”Noooo!!…” wail several shop assistants now, covering up the shop’s merchandise with their hands. One frantically points to a sign saying “No photos”, a warning issued by the police during the Olympic Games.

Security in subways I can understand, but convenience stores? Way weird. But here you have it: my precious photo of “Top Secret Wrigley’s Chewing Gum”. Don’t tell a soul.

topsecretwrigley.jpg

Author

  • CRACKING CHINA was previously the title of this blog. That title was used as the name for Rod MacKenzie's second book, Cracking China: a memoir of our first three years in China. From a review in the Johannesburg Star: " Mackenzie's writing is shot through with humour and there are many laugh-out-loud scenes". Cracking China is available as an eBook on Amazon Kindle or get a hard copy from www.knowledgethirstmedia.co.za. His previous book is a collection of poetry,Gathering Light. A born and bred South African, Rod now lives in Auckland, New Zealand, after a number of years working in southern mainland China and a stint in England. Under the editorship of David Bullard and Michael Trapido he had a column called "The Mocking Truth" on NewsTime until the newszine folded. He has a Master's Degree in Creative Writing from the University of Auckland. if you are a big, BIG publisher you should ask to see one of his many manuscript novels. Follow Rod on Twitter @ https://twitter.com/Rod_in_China

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Rod MacKenzie

CRACKING CHINA was previously the title of this blog. That title was used as the name for Rod MacKenzie's second book, Cracking China: a memoir of our first three years in China. From a review in the Johannesburg...

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