Friday
January 11 2008
8.14am
Sudan is known worldwide for bloodshed and conflict and corruption. All of that happens. But many other things also happen every day … beyond the headlines.
The Muslim world is currently witnessing the first few days of the new Islamic year, 1429. Sudan is a country with an estimated 70% Muslims among its estimated 40-million citizens (that’s what I am told). The result is that Islam plays a big role in the cultural, social and political life this side.
A three-day holiday marks the start of the Islamic New Year. This is much like the New Year holiday that we know in countries with non-religious governments. Incidentally, Sudan’s Independence Day is January 1, so it might seem like they’re celebrating the start of the New Year when they’re really marking the freedom they fought for from British-led and Egyptian supported colonisation. In 2008, that colonisation ended 53 years ago.
But back to the Islamic New Year. In the area where I live, Balaabil, the mosque up the road started reciting the 30 chapters of the Qur’an on the first day of the Islamic New Year and ended it today, Friday, after the early-morning Fajr prayers. All the men in the mosque sat in a circle and each one recited one of the surahs from the last chapter of the Qur’an.
There was of course a dua or prayer recited after the completion of the Qur’an and then we all gathered outside in the early-morning golden sun. There must have been about 50 men and one five-year-old boy who came to the mosque with his grandfather. Even this small boy recited a surah from the last chapter.
Outside, spread out on straw mats, were plates with dates, biscuits and the local version of a doughnut, zalabaat. These doughnuts are usually sugar-coated but this time there were small bowls of honey in which to dip them. Tea was also served and all around me the chatter began in Arabic.
By the time I decided to leave, a few rickshaw drivers — often very poor and struggling — also managed to discover that there was a free meal. Of course it’s no problem in Sudan to join anyone when they’re eating. This is the culture in Sudan. We usually eat out of the same plates as well.
On my way home an elderly man walked pass me. He raised his right hand and greeted me in Arabic. It’s also part of Sudanese tradition to greet even strangers. Often someone would get on a bus or other public transport and enter with the Arabic greeting.
The greeting is a message of peace. Spread the greetings and there will be peace, is the belief. If only it were that easy, the cynics among us wonder …
PS: I agree this might not be one of those entries that presents an argument or even a controversial point of view, but it’s a blog after all — an online diary. So surely I can get away with sharing this sort of thing, right?
PSS: This feels like a new toy. I want to play with it more. I hope it doesn’t break.
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